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CLOTHING FABRICS
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One of the most frequent questions we are asked is about fabrics. What is cashmere? Why are some camel hair fabrics more expensive then others? Can you wear this coat year around in Houston? Does this material wrinkle? Can you wash this fabric or should you send it to the dry cleaners?

These are just a few of the legitimate questions that clothing professionals are asked on a daily basis. Perhaps this pamphlet will assist you to become a little more knowledgeable about various fabrics that are used to make suits, pants, or shirts.

Fabrics for Suits, Sport Coats, and Trousers

Worsted- The worsted system of spinning uses long, uniform length fibers that are combed to lie parallel and are tightly twisted together. The fibers are strong, smooth and can be made into a very lightweight material. This fabric is not itchy and has no nap. The lightweight worsted wool is an excellent choice for suits, sport coats, and trousers for our Houston climate. If lightweight, worsted wool can be worn year around.

Gabardine - A durable, firmly woven, twill worsted fabric with a clear hard finish showing single diagonal lines running from bottom left to top right on the face of the fabric. Gabardines make for smart looking dressy casual trousers. Lightweight gabs can be worn approximately 10 months in Houston.

Flannel - A heavier, soft, luxurious fabric with a napped finish. This fabric is very attractive and offers a distinctive look. Flannel can be worn ÒsporadicallyÓ during the months of November, December, January, and February.

Hopsacking - A coarse, open basket weave cloth made primarily of wool. Because of the open weave the fabric is popular in the warmer climates. For many years hopsack fabrics were common in the tailoring of blazers. Hopsacking was named for the sacks used in the 19th century for the gathering of hops for the making of beer. It can be worn year around if the wool is 8 -9oz.

Cavalry Twill - A strong, rugged cloth made with a pronounced raised cord with a diagonal twill running from lower left to upper right at between a 45 to 63 degree angle. Cavalry twill was originally worn in the early 1900s for riding breeches. For Houston this is a seasonal fabric that can be worn from late fall through mid March comfortably.

Wool for Houston- To chose the right weight wool for Houston climate (Year around wear) you need to select lightweight worsted fabrics woven from fine yarns primarily in plain weaves. These clear finished fabrics are ideal for warm weather clothing. Wool's weight is weighed in ounces. For 12 month wear in Houston purchase 8oz. to 9 1/2oz. worsted wools for your clothing.

Bengaline - A fabric with crosswise rib, woven in India. Used in the tailoring of suits and sport coats. For the most part an excellent fabric for the warmer climates.

Corduroy - A cotton fabric with narrow or wide wales with a velvety surface. Corduroy can come in different weights. The heavier fabric can only be worn in the late fall through March. The name Corduroy is from the French words Òcorde der roiÓ meaning King's cord. During the reign of Louis XIV, outdoor servants wore a ribbed, cut pile fabric similar to present day cotton corduroy. The lighter weight corduroy can be worn approximately 7-8 months in Houston.

Poplin - Fabrics with a fine imbedded rib including cotton, silk, wool, blends or man-made fabrics. Excellent for warm weather climates. Gentlemen in Houston wore poplin suits for many years during the summer months. Today, with other choices for light weight fabrics, an air conditioned society, and the increase in casual dress, poplin suits are not as popular as they once were. However, poplin trousers remain fairly popular for spring and summer wear. A spring and summer fabric only.

Linen - Made from the flax plant, linen is a lustrous and cool fabric guaranteed to wrinkle. It is easily recognized by its characteristic slub and beautiful colors. This fabric has long been popular in the south and southwest because it is comfortable in warm weather. In the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's the classic white linen suit was a fixture in a Southern gentleman's wardrobe. A spring and summer fabric only.

Brush Cotton - Cotton or cotton blended fabrics which are brushed to produce a slight nap and softness to finish. A very popular fabric for use in manufacturing trousers. Generally this cotton finish is a little heavy and it is not advantageous for year around wear in Houston.

Harris Tweed - A hand woven tweed fabric from the island of Harris & Lewis in the outer Hebrides. The fabric can be worn in Houston only on a limited basis. It is a rough, wiry wool with hairy, nappy surface that permits bright yarns to mingle shades. Worn in Houston: November - February. ÒSometimesÓ.

Cashmere - Considered a luxury fabric because cashmere is one of the rarest natural fiber in the world, combed from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat which lives in the almost inaccessible regions of inner Mongolia. Be aware, that in most cases, cashmere merchandise offered at an excessively low price has a blend of non- natural fibers woven into the natural fibers. Most cashmere can be worn in Houston from mid October through the end of March.

Camel Hair - Undercoat hair from the Bactrian (two hump) camel. It is not clipped or shaved, but gathered from the ground as the camel's skin expands seasonally and hair loosens. There are different grades of camel hair. The hair is graded on the quality of the animal plus the part of the body that the hair comes from such as the underbelly and lesser exposed areas. Camel hair coats can be worn in Houston for approximately 5-6 months of the year depending on the weight of the fiber.

Lamb's Wool - Wool from young sheep after first shearing. Noted for its soft hand, it can be worn in Houston from mid-October to the middle of March.

Microfibre - A new rayon produced product that resist wrinkles. The light weight Micro fiber makes into a great golf and casual pant. It is also available in outerwear, sport coats, ladies wear, and various sport attire. Light weight micro fiber can be worn 9-10 months in Houston.

Mohair - The fiber of the Angora goat. Characterized by crispness, luster, lightness, and durability. Mohair makes into a dressy suit, and is worn in Houston approximately 7-8 months comfortably.

Searsucker - A crinkly, lightweight cotton fabric. Alternates stripes of plain flat weave with crinkle effects. Originally from India. Seersucker was very popular in the South for the first 60 years of the 20th century because it is so light weight and tolerated day to day wearing. A Southern gentleman always had his seersucker suit for the spring and summer. Although available, seersucker is not frequently worn today due to alternative light weight fabrics that are not so seasonal in nature. A spring and summer fabric only!
2425 WEST ALABAMA @ KIRBY DRIVE • HOUSTON , TEXAS 77098 • 713.688.9800